Tyre (Tire) Pumps and Inflators

Oasser Tyre Pump

There is always a tyre inflator on my bike. So, which ones are on my bikes…

As to tyre inflators, there are pros and cons to both – Yes, I have both and much prefer the Battery ones as I don’t need to run the bike (hot exhausts) and fit higher draw 12v electrical sockets on the bike. Don’t use the 12v socket in the glove box you’ll blow the fuse!

Battery (lithium-ion) inflators are the most convenient and some can also be used as a 12v and/or USB charger. They usually come with LED screens, are usually very accurate and are easy to operate.

The battery inflator on the FJR is used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike I’m riding that day (yes, I check the cold tyre pressures every day. I believe tyres are that important) and recharged every week (more often if required). It is now over 4 years old and, because it is being exercised regularly, the battery is in good condition and will inflate a motorcycle tyre from flat more than twice on a single charge – DAMHIK! This one will fit under the seat of a 2019 FJR:

Tyre Pump on the FJR1300

FJR: https://amzn.to/3mSRhns – Oasser Tyre Inflator Electric Bike Pump LCD Display with Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery LED Light 150PSI 12V Black

I have a second battery tyre inflator that has just given up the ghost after 7 years which was kept on my NT700VA Honda Deauville. This one was used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike and recharged every week (more often if required) until I got the one above. Then it was used intermittently. Oasser claim it will inflate a flat motorcycle tyre 8 times on a single charge. It is a little bigger, but more powerful, than the one on the FJR and won’t fit under the seat. To be able to fit under the seat it needs to be less than 8″ long and preferably <= 7.8″ long.

NT700: https://amzn.to/3Jtae82 – Oasser Tyre Inflator Car Tyre Pump 12V AC/DC Portable Air Compressor with 2000 Large Capacity Battery Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 120PSI 20 litres/Min

Both the Oasser tyre inflators come with a 12v and mains (110v – 240v) charging system. So, using the 12v, you can recharge it on the FJR using the 12v glove box socket provided you don’t run the pump at the same time.

I’m looking at replacing it with a Fanttik: https://amzn.to/3JJxekf The downside with the Fanttik is the length of the hose which is quite short.

I have found that the “wired” tyre inflators tend to have analogue gauges which, usually, aren’t as accurate.

For balance, here are a selection of motorcycle tyre inflators both battery and “wired”:
Selection of motorcycle tyre inflators: https://amzn.to/3JIUT4g

Also, I have ridden 10s of 1,000s of miles with plugged tyres (mushroom type – best, and with gummy worm type). I’ve never had a problem. Admittedly, my speed was rarely above 70 mph. I wouldn’t have any qualms riding with plugged tyres. So repair your tyres on the go and check the cold pressures regularly.

How to Lift the NT700 Deauville Fuel Tank

In “How to Lift the NT700 Deauville Fuel Tank” we look at how you can get access to the Air Box in order to change the Air Filter on a Honda NT700V Deauville 2006 → . We also discuss some tips and tricks as to making re-assembly easier.. (Video at the bottom of the page).

  • Remove the Seat and take out the Tool Kit (non-US models) – All the work can be carried out with the tools in the OEM Tool Kit, though you’ll find using a 10mm socket with ratchet and a magnetic, cross head screwdriver easier.
  • Remove the Rubber Heat Shield from between the Seat and the Tank – This reveals the bolt and the Cable Holder at the rear of the Tank
  • Remove the Glove Box Lids by lifting them slightly and pulling towards the rear of the bike
  • Remove the screw in the Side Cowlings (one on each side of the bike)
  • Remove the Hex Head Bolt from the rear of the Glove Boxes (use the Hex Key from the Tool Kit)
  • Remove the two Bolts at the front of the Petrol Tank which hold the Glove Boxes and the Tank to the Frame
  • Remove the two Bolts which hold the Glove Boxes to the Facia (below the speaker grills)
  • Remove the Side Cowlings by first pulling the tab towards you – This releases the clip. Then pull the Side Cowling towards the rear of the bike
  • Release the Cable from the Clip at the rear of the Petrol Tank
  • Then loosen the rear Petrol Tank Bolt a few turns – It’s not necessary to remove it Just loosen it a little
  • There are tabs on the Petrol Tank which Fit into Loops on the Glove Box Covers, so they can’t just lift up. So pull the covers towards the outside of the bike as you lift them. They take a bit of manoeuvring to get out. Don’t forget to disconnect the accessory socket – if it’s fitted
  • Remove the 10mm bolts holding the sides of Petrol Tank to the Frame
  • Lift the Front of the Petrol Tank, it will pivot on the rear bolt, and secure it with a Bungee or a strap
  • You can now remove the top of the Air Filter Housing. There are 9 Screws! Put cloths into the Venturi to stop anything falling into the cylinders (remember to remove the cloths when replacing the housing)
  • You can now change the Air Filter – just lift it out and replace it.
  • Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly – though there are a few “gotchas
  • Replace the Air Filter Cover. It only fits one way round and takes a bit of fiddling – the 9 screws are into plastic so don’t over-tighten IMPORTANT
  • Remember to reconnect all the connections to the Air box. It’s easy to forget one or not connect it correctly. DAMHIK!
  • Lower the Tank, Re-tighten the Pivot 10mm Bolt & replace the cable in the cable holder
  • Replace the 10mm bolts holding the sides of the tank to the frame
  • Replace the Glove Boxes. This takes a little finagling as the box has to fit past the bolting point. Don’t forget to reconnect the accessory socket – if it’s fitted
  • The loop on the underside of the Glove Box has to connect with a tab on the Glove Box. The Velcro Tab will make life difficult. So Place a piece of paper or card between the two Velcro pieces while manoeuvring it into place
  • Align the Bolt Holes at the front of the tank. Note the Glove Boxes are “Keyed”. One slots into the other
  • Replace the two bolts at the front of the Glove Boxes but don’t fully tighten yet
  • Replace the Hex Head Bolts below the Glove Boxes.
  • Finally, tighten ALL the Glove Box Bolts
  • Replace the Side Cowls – There is a hook on the underside of the Glove Box pieces which slides into the Side Cowls – attach this first and slide the cowls towards the front of the bike. Then clip the bottom hooks into place. Finally, ensure the bullet connector at the rear of the cowl is connected
  • Replace the Tank Heat Shield – There is a grove in the bottom which locates onto the panels next to the frame
  • Insert and tighten the Bolts in the Side Cowls
  • Replace the Glove Box Lids – They locate and clip into place At the same angle as they came out
  • Replace your Tool Kit – You can do a lot of the basic work on your bike with it

I hope to have more lighting in the garage soon so you’ll be able to watch videos of the process not just a montage of stills.

How to lift the Deauville NT700 Fuel Tank

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