Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Seat – Deauville NT700

Ordering, Delivery, Unboxing & Fitting

What’s in the box? How well made is it? How easy is it to fit? Today you’ll find out.

Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr
Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Seat for the Deauville NT700 on Amazon
Top Sellerie Range for the Deauville 650 & 700 on Amazon

Ordering

The Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Seat was ordered online 14th January. I had a replacement Seat Pan so I sent that off the next day. I received a confirmation that the Seat Pan had arrived and was given a provisional shipping date of 19th February. On 6th February I received an email to tell me that the seat was being shipped and I received it on 12th, a whole week earlier than expected – Well done Top Sellerie!

Top Sellerie have 3 methods of “ordering”:

  • Remanufacture: Send your original seat and receive your new seat about 4 weeks later. Pros: Cheapest and you keep your own seat pan. Cons: You can’t ride your bike for about a month! Finding a way to send your seat to them.
  • Seat Exchange: Use their own seat pan and receive your new seat in about 1 week to 4 weeks depending on whether they need to build it or have one in stock. You then send your original seat back to them (you also need to pay a relatively hefty deposit which you get refunded when they receive your seat). Pros: Cheaper and you get to ride your bike while the seat is being made. Cons: Paying a hefty deposit and having to find a way to send your seat back to them
  • Buy a New Seat: Buy a complete seat from them. Waiting times are similar to Seat Exchange. It’s also the most expensive. Pros: You get to ride your bike while the seat is being made and you’ve always got your old seat if you need it. You can also sell your old seat to recoup some of the cost if you want. Cons: Cost

Customer Service

Top Sellerie’s customer service is excellent. They informed of the receipt of the seat pan and of the shipping.

Delivery

Delivery is via a Courier Company. Mine was delivered by DHL. Top Sellerie seem to have a number of outlets, depots and facilities in different countries and mine was shipped from Portugal. DHL had initially given a delivery date of 14th February but, it arrived two days earlier. Luckily, someone was here to receive the delivery.

What’s in the Box?

The seat in clear plastic bag and bubble wrap, and a note, in various languages, asking to send a photo of the seat on the bike. The seat was well protected by the bubble wrap and the outer packaging had stood up well to the delivery. If you order the Seat Exchange, you can use the same packaging to send your old seat back to them. I’m using the packaging to store my original seat safely in the garage.

The Gel seat is heavy! It’s about twice the weight of the original seat. The piping on the edges, the embroidery and stitching look very good indeed to my untrained eye.

The gel is firm and the covering material feels very good. The cover is stapled to the seat pan and they’ve used a lot of staples. They’ve also used three “studs” to secure the “hump” behind the rider’s seat.

Fitting

The seat takes a lot of finagling to fit for the first time. This is due to the extra size of the front portion of the seat. I initially thought that there was a problem with the seat pan but, I checked the Honda part number and measured all the fasteners and holes and they were exactly the same except one of the holes which was about 0.25 mm smaller so I “dremelled” it to the same size.

The knack to fitting the seat the first time is to put the bike on the centre stand. Make sure it won’t rock forward so put something in front of the front and/or rear wheel and brace your leg against the passenger foot rest, you’ll see why in a moment. Slot the seat into place, it won’t lock down at this point. This is due to the head of the bolt which holds the seat locking mechanism in place not lining up with the corresponding hole in the seat pan. Firmly grasp the rear of the seat and forcefully pull it forward while pressing down, the seat will lock into place. You may need two or three goes at it. If you still have problems, remove the rubber heat guard from between the tank and the seat and try again.

Now you know why you need the bike stabilised!

Note: after the seat has been on for a while the gel at the front of the seat deforms by about the 1 mm required and it does become easier to fit the seat. If you’re still having problems, you could “dremel” the the hole the bolt head fits into on the bottom of the seat pan about 1 mm longer.

Unlocking the seat needs a bit more force on the lever until the seat “beds in”.

Thoughts

This seat feels nice to the touch and looks fantastic. This seat is lovely once you get the knack of putting it on and taking it off. The seat is a little taller than the original. I used to be able to “flat-foot” both feet with the original seat now, I can’t quite flat-foot both feet simultaneously, but I can very easily get the balls of both feet on the ground. For reference I’m just over 5’8″ or 174 cm with a 30″ inside leg.

I’m very impressed with the seat so far and will go out and give it a thorough test and report back. So, in the next post I’ll give my thoughts on comfort, riding on it and using it on a regular basis. Until next time…

Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Seat for the Deauville NT700
Top Sellerie Range for the Deauville 650 & 700
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

Basic Suspension Sag – Spring Preload

Correct suspension setup is essential for your motorcycle to handle correctly. A lot of motorcycles come just with very basic suspension setup – Spring Preload. You can usually only change the ride height of the rear suspension. That’s it!

In this article we’ll look at adjusting the Spring Preload. In other articles we’ll look at more complex suspension adjustments – compression and rebound damping.

Setting the Spring Preload correctly means the rear suspension for your bike is set up for your weight. Therefore the motorcycle handles better.

Some motorcycles only have 5 or 6 adjustment positions, others can have many more. You have to live with what your motorcycle has which, for most riders, will be adequate. If it isn’t, change the spring to one more suitable for your weight.

There is a more precise way to set up the rear suspension for your bike than the “seat of the pants” method used in the past. It involves a friend, or two if you don’t have a paddock stand, and a tape measure. Oh, and a pencil and paper to write everything down. If your friends are riders too, you can have a Rider Sag Suspension Setup Session.

  • 1. Write down the current settings: how many turns in or out (your choice but usually out) the settings are currently set to. Note: the factory setting is usually in the manual, if all goes wrong reset to that!
  • 2. Get off the bike . Lift the rear end to the limit of the suspension travel and let it drop back down, supporting the bike so it doesn’t fall over – a front wheel paddock stand is really useful here if you have one or a friend. There should be about 5 mm of drop – measure by eye. This is the Static Sag.
  • 3. Measure the suspension height, in millimetres, from a suitable place e.g. top suspension bolt to bottom suspension bolt or a suitable point on the rear plastic or frame to the rear axle nut etc. (try to get as near vertical as possible) and write down this measurement immediately after doing the static sag.
  • 4. Get on the bike, in full bike clothing with normal luggage and/or backpack, and sit as you would sit normally while riding, both feet on the pegs with either a paddock stand or friend holding the front of the bike. Measure the suspension again (as per item 3) and subtract it from the figure in item 3. This is called Rider Sag.
    The Rider Sag for a typical street setup should be about 35 mm – 40 mm (30 mm – 40 mm if there isn’t much adjustment available).
    Note: track Sag settings are different and shouldn’t be used on public roads as you’ll probably end up in a hedge at the first bump!
  • 5. If there is more than one rear shock on your motorcycle, adjust both shocks equally (very important) until the desired Rider Sag is achieved. See your manual for the adjustment procedure. If you’ve loosened any nuts make sure they’re correctly tightened as per the manual.
    Now do your friends’ bikes…
  • 6. Go for a test ride and adjust if necessary between the 30 mm and 40 mm range.
  • 7. Recheck your Rider Sag about every 1,000 miles or so.

Now that your Rider Sag is setup correctly you should see a number of benefits:

  • Better handling, especially in the corners
  • A more comfortable ride
  • Better tyre wear – your tyres should last longer provided they’re correctly inflated.

Finally, remember to change the Rider Sag if you carry a pillion passenger or heavy items i.e. you go on a touring holiday.

Until next time, ride safe and enjoy your ride.

Eclipse Battery Voltage Monitor

Tiny doesn’t do this auto-dimming battery voltage monitor justice! It’s miniscule with a multitude of functions.

The Eclipse is a fully waterproof voltage indicator with a bright three colour (green/amber/red) LED. The entire control circuit is built into a tiny water-resistant capsule embedded directly behind the LED, and a black nylon bezel (plus a spare) are supplied for a tidy installation into your panel. It is guaranteed waterproof.

The Eclipse constantly monitors the ambient light level and adjusts the LED’s output brightness instantly and seamlessly, so that the LED will not dazzle at night time. There is no ‘third wire’ or separate sensor.

Benefits of auto-dimming:

  • LED is brightly visible in sunshine and comfortably dimmed during dark
  • maintains optimum indication with minimum distraction
  • micropower consumption in darkness

Features:

  • dims automatically in response to ambient light
  • fully waterproof & shockproof (IP rating pending)
  • available in three LED sizes; 10mm, 8mm, and 5mm
  • indicates your battery’s charge condition and confirms alternator operation (if applicable)
  • available in 6v, 12v, or 24v versions (or other voltage from 3v min. to 32v max.)
  • extremely precise (12v unit is +/-0.03v)
  • 600 mm long flexible flying leads (longer leads available on request)
  • reverse polarity and overload protected
  • simple two wire connection to positive & negative
  • very low power consumption (8ma in bright light, 1ma in darkness)
  • suitable for direct connection to battery (simply cover to reduce drain when garaged)
Voltage: Output: Engine running: Engine stopped (electrics off):
>15.20v Green / Red alternating over-charging – regulator problem not applicable
>13.20v Green steady normal charging exceptional battery charge (uncommon)
>12.45v Amber steady under-charging – alternator problem normal battery, charged and in good health
>12.25v ■■ Red slow flashing not charging – battery low fair battery charge
>12.05v •• Red 2 flashes, repeating not charging – battery low low battery charge
>11.80v ••• Red 3 flashes, repeating not charging – battery very low very low battery charge
<11.80v •••• Red 4 flashes, repeating not charging – battery very low consider renewing battery

Installation

As it is so small and waterproof, installation is as easy or as difficult as you want it to be. It can be installed anywhere relatively close to virtually any live circuit. It doesn’t have to be near the battery.

On the Honda Deauville 700 it is installed in the instrument panel. This took a little more work as the instrument panel had to be removed and then drilled (eek!). The hole required depends on the unit purchased but it’s no more than 14 mm. I choose the 8 mm unit so needed a 12 mm hole. If you are going to mount it in your dashboard, or anywhere else for that matter, double check that you’re not going to damage any circuitry – “measure twice, cut once

Connection is better to a low power switched circuit and not to the headlights or heated grips etc. You can connect it directly to the battery (it draws very little power) provided the bike isn’t garaged over winter or for long periods.

So what’s it like in use?

The LED battery monitor has operated flawlessly for over 5 years. It gives an extremely easy to read state of your battery and, if there’s a problem, the flashing LED will catch your eye.

On turning on the ignition you (usually) get a steady red light. On starting it usually flashes because the starter motor is drawing a great deal of current. Once the engine is started the LED turns green after about 1 second. That’s it. Simples!

When the battery on the Deauville started to fail about 4 years ago, the Eclipse gave lots of warning that it wasn’t charging properly. This meant I could order a new battery and fit it before being stuck at the side of the road.

I thoroughly recommend this unit. Properly positioned it even looks OEM.

You can get your Eclipse Battery Voltage Monitor here:

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat – FJR1300

Ordering, Delivery, Unboxing & Fitting

What’s in the box? How well made is it? Does “Lowered” make a difference? How easy is it to fit? Today you’ll find out.

Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat for the FJR1300 >2006
Top Sellerie Products on Amazon
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

Ordering

The Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat was ordered online at the end of November 2019 in time for a Christmas delivery. Luckily they had one in stock, in Portugal – more about this later, and it was delivered 2 weeks before Christmas.

Top Sellerie have 3 methods of “ordering”:

  • Remanufacture: Send your original seat and receive your new seat about 4 weeks later. Pros: Cheapest and you keep your own seat pan. Cons: You can’t ride your bike for about a month! Finding a way to send your seat to them.
  • Seat Exchange: Use their own seat pan and receive your new seat in about 1 week to 4 weeks depending on whether they need to build it or have one in stock. You then send your original seat back to them (you also need to pay a relatively hefty deposit which you get refunded when they receive your seat). Pros: Cheaper and you get to ride your bike while the seat is being made. Cons: Paying a hefty deposit and having to find a way to send your seat back to them
  • Buy a New Seat: Buy a complete seat from them. Waiting times are similar to Seat Exchange. It’s also the most expensive. Pros: You get to ride your bike while the seat is being made and you’ve always got your old seat if you need it. You can also sell your old seat to recoup some of the cost if you want. Cons: Cost

Customer Service

Top Sellerie’s customer service is excellent. They replied promptly to my queries and were courteous and extremely helpful. They sorted out the problem with DHL (see below) quickly and efficiently. All the correspondence was in English. Top Marks Top Sellerie!

Delivery

Delivery is via a Courier Company. Mine was, unfortunately, delivered by DHL. Top Sellerie seem to have a number of outlets, depots and facilities in different countries and mine was shipped from Portugal at no extra cost to me. Unfortunately DHL managed to “lose” the package in Spain. How do you “lose” a package big enough to hold a motorcycle seat? On their tracking site it said it was in Spain and it remained there, in total, for about 10 days. After 3 days I emailed DHL and received a “canned response”. 3 days later I emailed them again and received another “canned response”, though, this time DHL blocked access to the detailed tracking info. I then emailed Top Sellerie and, low and behold, DHL “found” the package and it was delivered three days later. I think DHL needs to change their corporate slogan to “Too big to care”.

What’s in the Box?

Just the seat in clear plastic bags and bubble wrap. The seat was well protected by the bubble wrap and the outer packaging had stood up well to the delivery. If you order the Seat Exchange, you can use the same packaging to send your old seat back to them. I’m using the packaging to store my original seat safely in the garage.

The Gel seat is heavy! It’s about twice the weight of the original seat. (Note to self: weigh it and find out). The piping on the edges, the embroidery and stitching look very good indeed to my untrained eye. The Top Sellerie seat pan is stamped with the Top Sellerie logo underneath and isn’t of the same plastic material as my original seat. I don’t think this matters as it seems to be more sturdy so will handle the extra weight of the gel.

The gel is firm and the covering material feels very good. The cover is stapled to the seat pan and they’ve used a lot of staples.

Fitting

The FJR has two seats, front and rear.

The front is very easy. It fits perfectly in the place of the original seat.

The rear seat takes a bit more finagling. This is due to the extra size of the front seat and rear seat. You need to slot the rear of the rear seat in place, then while holding it down with one hand, pull the front seat slightly forward and, at the same time, push the front of the rear seat down until it clicks. It’s easy after you’ve done it a few times.

The original seat, when you unlocked it, would pop up. The Top Sellerie one doesn’t, so you need to push it push while turning the lock.

Thoughts

This seat feels nice to the touch and looks fantastic. This seat is lovely once you get the knack of putting it on and taking it off. As it’s the lowered seat, I’m no longer on tiptoe, which was a bit precarious to say the least with a bike as heavy as the FJR. I can’t flat-foot both feet simultaneously, but I can get the balls of both feet on the ground and I can flat-foot one foot very easily. For reference I’m just over 5’8″ or 174 cm with a 30″ inside leg.

So, yes! To answer the question. Lowered makes quite a big difference.

I’m very impressed with it so far and will go out and give it a thorough test and report back. So, in the next post I’ll give my thoughts on comfort, riding on it and using it on a regular basis. Until next time…

Link to the Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat for the FJR1300 >2006
Top Sellerie Products on Amazon
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

FJR1300 with the Top Sellerie Deluxe, Comfort, Gel, Lowered Seat

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

Protecting Matte Paint

Matte paint is designed to reflect light in a different manner to glass paint. This goes without saying. So why is Gloss paint shiny and Matte paint matte?

The answer is in the lacquer which is applied to the paint. In gloss paint, the lacquer is designed to be absolutely flat and smooth so it reflects as much light as possible giving the gloss look. Matte paint lacquer is designed not to be smooth and flat so to reflect much less light giving the matte look.

So why does this matter?

In order to keep Matte paint matte the lacquer needs to remain “rough”. If you use traditional washing liquids, clay bars, polishes and waxes you’ll smooth out the lacquer and it’ll become gloss. Not what you want or paid extra for.

Polish is designed to remove a microscopic part of the surface layer making the lacquer smooth again. Waxes are designed to fill in any tiny imperfections in the surface layer thereby giving a much higher gloss finish.

Enough of the “theory” behind why paint is matte or gloss. What can you use to protect Matte paint?

You need a product which cleans without polishing or adding wax and you also need a product which will bind with the lacquer keeping the rough surface. After much research I’ve found just the products.

Chemical Guy’s JetSeal Matte Sealant uses innovative nano-tech polymers to create a durable shield for up to one year of protection. This sealant helps protect against water spots, contamination, and UV rays that fade and discolour matte surfaces to preserve a crisp, bold finish without leaving behind any shine. JetSeal Matte is the perfect protectant for matte paintwork, wheels, powder coat, and vinyl-wrapped surfaces.

JetSeal Matte protects through intense heat and extreme cold: UV solar rays, water damage, bird droppings, insect residues, and improper cleaning products easily stain sensitive matte surfaces, so it’s important to always keep the surface protected. JetSeal Matte was developed with aerospace technology for maximum protection and was designed to perform and protect through the harshest environments while leaving behind a crisp, textured OEM look. 

To help you, at the bottom of the page is a complete list of all the products used to protect Matte Paint vehicles and where to buy them*.

First you need to ensure that your vehicle is scrupulously clean. This is because the protection doesn’t remove any dirt or marks – it seals them in so you need to make sure it’s clean. For details on how to clean your vehicle see: Cleaning Matte Paint.

I will be making videos about how to protect Matte Paint as well as Gloss paint and will post links here when the time comes.

Now that your vehicle is as clean as possible and you’ve touched up any blemishes you need to apply the coating:

  1. Ensure the surface is cool and dry.
  2. Shake the bottle well.
  3. Apply two lines across the width of the Applicator Pad.
  4. Apply a thin coat of Chemical Guys JetSeal Matte Sealant using a premium foam applicator pad. Don’t put too much on – A thin, fine coat is all that is required. A little bit goes a long way!
  5. Thoroughly work the Sealant into the surface using an overlapping or cross-hatching pattern. Do one section or panel at a time. Make sure the whole panel is coated.
  6. Allow about 20 minutes drying time depending on the temperature.
  7. Buff off using a premium microfibre towel.
  8. The following steps should be done every time you clean your vehicle:
    Spray Pro Prep onto the engine and other metal parts that weren’t coated with JetSeal. Keep the spray away from tyres and brake discs.
  9. Spray Pro Prep onto a Workshop Wipe (do not use kitchen towel as it’s too abrasive) and wipe over the wheel rims and spokes. You may need a Wheel Spinner to help turn the front and/or rear wheels of your vehicle.
  10. Finally, clean your brake disks by spraying Brake Cleaner onto a Workshop Wipe and wiping down the discs.

Steps 1 – 7 above should be done about once a year in normal use, reapply Chemical Guys JetSeal Matte Sealant to keep your vehicle protected. Though you can do it more often.
Steps 8 – 10 above should be done every time you clean your vehicle.

Cleaning your Bike

The first rule about cleaning your bike is to try not to touch it when it’s dirty! This is because it scratches extremely easily. By using a cloth, sponge or chamois leather you’ll pick up microscopic pieces of dirt and grit which will then scratch the paint. These scratches are known as “swirl marks”.

Woah, how then do I clean it if I can’t touch it?

Well it’s not as difficult as you may think. The technique is to clean the paint and remove all the dirt before you touch it. This technique can be used and is recommend for use on all paint types – Matte or Gloss.

I will be making videos about how to clean and care for Matte Paint as well as Gloss paint and will post links here when the time comes.

To help you, at the bottom of the page is a complete list of all the products used to clean my vehicles and where to buy them*.

The Steps Required:

  1. Make sure the vehicle is cold. It shouldn’t have been used and should have been kept in the shade for at least an hour.
  2. Make sure the vehicle is in the shade, out of direct sunlight, preferably out of the wind and not in a dusty environment. If it has a centre stand, place it on the centre stand. If it doesn’t, use a Paddock stand.
  3. Thoroughly rinse the exterior of the vehicle, including wheels etc. using clean, cold water. It is best to use a hosepipe without a nozzle for this and not a jet-washer**.
    Note: Pressure-washers** and high pressure hoses can cause damage to electrics, bearings and even the paint if the power is too high. If you have to use a pressure/jet-washer, dial the power to the minimum setting, set the spray to the widest setting and keep the nozzle/tip at least 1 metre (3 feet) from the vehicle at all times. Use your common sense to make sure you don’t push water past the seals into the bearings and electrics.
  4. Now starting from the top of the vehicle and working to the bottom, liberally spray the whole of exterior of the vehicle with Muc-off Bike Cleaner or Silkolene Wash Off. Both do the same job extremely well. You’ll use about 1/3 of a litre of the cleaner depending on the size of the motorcycle.
    You can make your own soap spray. I use Dr Beasley’s Body Wash which I dilute in water. To 1 litre of water (approximately 2 pints) in a spray container, add 3 – 4 cap fulls of Dr Beasley’s Body Wash. Shake well before use.
  5. Leave the cleaning product to “soak” on the vehicle for about 5 minutes without letting it dry. This lets it soak into and under the dirt. Then rinse off as before (step 3). If it does start to dry respray with the cleaner.
  6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. Then check that the vehicle is totally clean. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5 for a third time – you very rarely have to do it a third time.
    If you have a very stubborn area, very very gently, using your finger (don’t use a cloth as you need to be able to feel for grit), rub the area while applying the cleaning product. If you feel any grittiness at all, stop rubbing immediately.
  7. At this point the whole vehicle should be clean so you can now touch it. Using a good quality Microfibre towel and starting at the top, dry the whole of the vehicle.
    Do not let the towel touch the ground, if it does, put it in the wash and get another one.
    If you don’t want to touch your vehicle, you can use a vehicle dryer (highly recommended) to dry your vehicle. Note: it is better to use a motorcycle dryer as it usually includes a longer cable and a heater.
  8. To dry the front wheel and/or the rear wheel, use a Motorcycle Wheel Roller. This allows you to easily turn the wheel while drying it. Drying the wheels are usually the last drying job.
  9. Once the motorcycle is clean and dry take it off the centre stand and place it on the side stand. Start the engine and leave the engine running for about 10 minutes to thoroughly warm up and dry out the motorcycle. Make sure all the controls and electrics are working.

Your vehicle should now be clean and dry and you can put it away or, better still, go for a ride!

About once every 3 months during the summer and once a month in the winter I also add a layer of protection to the motorcycle. You can find details in Protecting your Pride and Joy (link coming soon).

Products Used:

Muc-off Bike Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2PJMNgk
Silkolene Wash Off: https://amzn.to/2rcswpu
Dr Beasley’s Body Wash: https://amzn.to/2WLExxJ
Microfibre Drying Towels: https://amzn.to/36zhrPm
Paddock Stand: https://amzn.to/36wRNef
Motorcycle Wheel Roller: https://amzn.to/2CchnaA
Motorcycle Dryer: https://amzn.to/32g02aY
Worx Cordless Pressure Washer**: https://amzn.to/2PHhkvg
Worx Battery Charging Station: https://amzn.to/2NCRV3b (required for the pressure washer)
* These are affiliate links and will help support this channel with a small commission at no additional cost to you. The price you pay is the same regardless of whether you use these links or not. Thank you for your support.

** I have to use a pressure washer as I don’t have a tap for water or an electricity point close to where I wash my vehicles. Therefore, I use a battery operated pressure washer which can draw water from a bucket.

Cleaning Matte Paint

Matte Paint is difficult to clean properly and even more difficult to keep clean. Traditional cleaning products can, and usually do, damage Matte Paint. Therefore, you need to use different products and techniques specially formulated for the paint. In this Post we’ll look at how to keep Matte Paint looking good. To protect matte paint, see Protecting Matte Paint

Matte Paint is formulated to not have a reflective surface. The Clear Coat, the lacquer on top of the paint, isn’t smooth as in gloss paints. If you rub it you’re going to make it smoother and more reflective. This is BAD. You cannot use any products which contain polishes, silicone or wax as this will also make the surface smoother and more reflective.

To help you, at the bottom of the page is a complete list of all the products used to clean my Matte Paint vehicles and where to buy them*.

The first rule about cleaning Matte Paint is to try not to touch it when it’s dirty! This is because it scratches extremely easily.

Woah, how then do I clean it if I can’t touch it?

Well it’s not as difficult as you may think. The technique is to clean the paint and remove all the dirt before you touch it. This technique can be used and is recommend for use on all paint types – Matte or Gloss. See Cleaning Your Bike for specific information on gloss paints as this page deals only with Matte Paints.

I will be making videos about how to clean and care for Matte Paint as well as Gloss paint and will post links here when the time comes.

The Steps Required:

  1. Make sure the vehicle is cold. It shouldn’t have been used and should have been kept in the shade for at least an hour.
  2. Make sure the vehicle is in the shade, out of direct sunlight, preferably out of the wind and not in a dusty environment. If it has a centre stand, place it on the centre stand. If it doesn’t, use a Paddock stand.
  3. Thoroughly rinse the exterior of the vehicle, including wheels etc. using clean, cold water. It is best to use a hosepipe without a nozzle for this and not a jet-washer**.
    Note: Pressure-washers** and high pressure hoses can cause damage to electrics, bearings and even the paint if the power is too high. If you have to use a pressure/jet-washer, dial the power to the minimum setting, set the spray to the widest setting and keep the nozzle/tip at least 1 metre (3 feet) from the vehicle at all times. Use your common sense to make sure you don’t push water past the seals into the bearings and electrics.
  4. Now starting from the top of the vehicle and working to the bottom, liberally spray the whole of exterior of the vehicle with Muc-off Bike Cleaner or Silkolene Wash Off. Both do the same job extremely well. You’ll use about 1/3 of a litre of the cleaner depending on the size of the motorcycle.
    You can make your own soap spray. I use Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash diluted in water. To 1 litre of water (approximately 2 pints) in a spray container, add 3 – 4 cap fulls of Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash . Shake well before use.
  5. Leave the cleaning product to “soak” on the vehicle for about 5 minutes without letting it dry. This lets it soak into and under the dirt. Then rinse off as before (step 3). If it does start to dry respray with the cleaner.
  6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. Then check that the vehicle is totally clean. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5 for a third time – you very rarely have to do it a third time.
    If you have a very stubborn area, very very gently, using your finger (don’t use a cloth as you need to be able to feel for grit), rub the area while applying the cleaning product. If you feel any grittiness at all, stop rubbing immediately.
  7. At this point the whole vehicle should be clean so you can now touch it. Using a good quality Microfibre towel and starting at the top, dry the whole of the vehicle.
    Do not let the towel touch the ground, if it does, put it in the wash and get another one.
    If you don’t want to touch your vehicle, you can use a vehicle dryer (highly recommended) to dry your vehicle. Note: it is better to use a motorcycle dryer as it usually includes a longer cable and a heater.
  8. To dry the front wheel and/or the rear wheel, use a Motorcycle Wheel Roller. This allows you to easily turn the wheel while drying it. Drying the wheels are usually the last drying job.
  9. Once the motorcycle is clean and dry take it off the centre stand and place it on the side stand. Start the engine and leave the engine running for about 10 minutes to thoroughly warm up and dry out the motorcycle. Make sure all the controls and electrics are working.

Your vehicle should now be clean and dry and you can put it away or, better still, go for a ride!

About once every 3 months during the summer and once a month in the winter I also add a layer of protection to the motorcycle. You can find details in Protecting your Matte Paint .

Products Used:

Muc-off Bike Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2PJMNgk
Silkolene Wash Off: https://amzn.to/2rcswpu
Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash: https://amzn.to/2Q5MVqw
Microfibre Drying Towels: https://amzn.to/36zhrPm
Paddock Stand: https://amzn.to/36wRNef
Motorcycle Wheel Roller: https://amzn.to/2CchnaA
Motorcycle Dryer: https://amzn.to/32g02aY
Worx Cordless Pressure Washer**: https://amzn.to/2PHhkvg
Worx Battery Charging Station: https://amzn.to/2NCRV3b (required for the pressure washer)
*These are affiliate links. By using these links Bike Farkles receives a small commission which goes towards the running of this site. The price you pay is the same regardless of whether you use these links or not. Thank you for your support.

** I have to use a pressure washer as I don’t have a tap for water or an electricity point close to where I wash my vehicles. Therefore, I use a battery operated pressure washer which can draw water from a bucket.