Tyre (Tire) Pumps and Inflators

Oasser Tyre Pump

There is always a tyre inflator on my bike. So, which ones are on my bikes…

As to tyre inflators, there are pros and cons to both – Yes, I have both and much prefer the Battery ones as I don’t need to run the bike (hot exhausts) and fit higher draw 12v electrical sockets on the bike. Don’t use the 12v socket in the glove box you’ll blow the fuse!

Battery (lithium-ion) inflators are the most convenient and some can also be used as a 12v and/or USB charger. They usually come with LED screens, are usually very accurate and are easy to operate.

The battery inflator on the FJR is used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike I’m riding that day (yes, I check the cold tyre pressures every day. I believe tyres are that important) and recharged every week (more often if required). It is now over 4 years old and, because it is being exercised regularly, the battery is in good condition and will inflate a motorcycle tyre from flat more than twice on a single charge – DAMHIK! This one will fit under the seat of a 2019 FJR:

Tyre Pump on the FJR1300

FJR: https://amzn.to/3mSRhns – Oasser Tyre Inflator Electric Bike Pump LCD Display with Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery LED Light 150PSI 12V Black

I have a second battery tyre inflator that has just given up the ghost after 7 years which was kept on my NT700VA Honda Deauville. This one was used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike and recharged every week (more often if required) until I got the one above. Then it was used intermittently. Oasser claim it will inflate a flat motorcycle tyre 8 times on a single charge. It is a little bigger, but more powerful, than the one on the FJR and won’t fit under the seat. To be able to fit under the seat it needs to be less than 8″ long and preferably <= 7.8″ long.

NT700: https://amzn.to/3Jtae82 – Oasser Tyre Inflator Car Tyre Pump 12V AC/DC Portable Air Compressor with 2000 Large Capacity Battery Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 120PSI 20 litres/Min

Both the Oasser tyre inflators come with a 12v and mains (110v – 240v) charging system. So, using the 12v, you can recharge it on the FJR using the 12v glove box socket provided you don’t run the pump at the same time.

I’m looking at replacing it with a Fanttik: https://amzn.to/3JJxekf The downside with the Fanttik is the length of the hose which is quite short.

I have found that the “wired” tyre inflators tend to have analogue gauges which, usually, aren’t as accurate.

For balance, here are a selection of motorcycle tyre inflators both battery and “wired”:
Selection of motorcycle tyre inflators: https://amzn.to/3JIUT4g

Also, I have ridden 10s of 1,000s of miles with plugged tyres (mushroom type – best, and with gummy worm type). I’ve never had a problem. Admittedly, my speed was rarely above 70 mph. I wouldn’t have any qualms riding with plugged tyres. So repair your tyres on the go and check the cold pressures regularly.

How to Pin the Panniers on a Yamaha FJR1300

There have been occasions when the side cases on the FJR1300 have become detached while riding, especially after hitting a bump or deformity in the road. Only just the other day someone posted on another site about one of his Panniers becoming detached and self destructing on the road. Luckily this hasn’t happened to me. Even so I decided to do something about it. The video on How to Pin the Panniers on a Yamaha FJR1300 is at the end of this post.

With that in mind I decided to pin my panniers. It turned out to be a very easy job – the basic work took less than 15 minutes to complete both sides. As I have rear crash guards and decided to paint the clevis pins, it took about an hour or so in total.

I’ve found that since doing it the panniers don’t move at all. Whereas before they would rattle a little. Also, when they are full, the bike seems more stable at the rear probably due to the lack of movement.

The minimum you need to do the job is two 55mm x 6mm (2¼” x ¼”) or slightly longer Clevis Pins, a 7mm (5/16”) drill bit and a drill. (Selection of Clevis Pins)


  • Optional – Paint Clevis Pins
  • Remove Rear Crash Bars if fitted
  • Offer up drill to the side case and place a lot of Masking Tape on the Panniers where the drill touches
  • Glue Rubber Stays back in place if necessary
  • Optional (recommended) – Drill a small pilot hole centred 7mm from the long flat side of the case support and centred between the two ribs
  • Drill the hole through the case supports and rubber stays (centred 7mm from the long flat side of the case support and centred between the two ribs)
  • Optional – Cut Heat Shrink Tubes to size 95mm (4 5/8″) long
  • Optional – Spray small amount of White Grease into the heat Shrink Tubes and slide them onto the Round Wire loops on the Clevis Pins
  • Optional – Shrink the Heat Shrink tube with a heat gun
  • Insert the Clevis Pins

I made a video and took some photographs of the procedure. There is no lighting in the garage, so the video footage was very grainy and not usable. Luckily, pictures were taken of each step using a mobile phone with a flash. The video below, therefore, is a montage of those pictures and more than adequately shows the items and the steps necessary to do this very simple job.