Affiliate link with 22% off using code: JOHNLAVELLE https://aoocci.com/?ref=rorcihvl
A good system but there are some issues to be overcome
The Aoocci BX arrived promptly, though Customs clearance took a day or two.
The unit is very well packaged and comes with nearly everything you need to install it on most motorcycles.
The screen is clear and bright enough for most conditions. The road names on the maps are easily readable which is a huge improvement over my large screen mobile phone.
The Radar system works very well and is especially useful at traffic lights and intersections.
The camera resolution is suitable as a dashcam. It is clear and you can read the number plates of the vehicles. It can, at a pinch as an inlay, be used in a video.
The GPS works well though the speed display on the saved video doesn’t match the speed display on the head unit. It is about 10% faster on the saved mp4 files. Why? This could be a potential problem when used as evidence.
Android Auto system from Google has some limitations The Apple Car Play system seems to provide a better experience (I haven’t got an Apple phone so can’t comment further on that).
Would I buy the Aoocci BX again? Yes, even with the issues listed below I like the unit.
Once setup (see below), it connects seamlessly to Android Auto. But, by making a “one size fits all” unit, there are a number of issues to be addressed. These are:
1. Upgrades:
1.1 After an upgrade/update the system forgets all your settings and peripherals (tyre pressure monitors and radar), these need to be manually reentered. A system to store these settings would be beneficial.
1.2 Upgrades are fairly regular which is excellent but, having to reenter your settings each time is irritating.
1.3 The system needs to reconnected to your phone after each upgrade. This doesn’t always work first time or, if it does, it takes quite a long time (up to a minute or longer) before the connection is properly established. This, of course, could be a problem with Android Auto. If it is, more information in the manual would be useful.
1.4 After an upgrade, sometimes you will receive the errors: “Android Auto has encountered an unexpected error” and “Waze has encountered an unexpected error”. More information would be helpful like an error code which could be referenced in the FAQ on the website. The only way I have found to fix this is to completely disconnect the unit from the power for at least 1 minute. Cycling the ignition doesn’t seem to work.
1.5 After an upgrade, Waze shows a black screen. You still receive the navigation instructions in your helmet or the unit’s speaker. Just no map. Again, to fix this completely disconnect the unit from the power for at least 1 minute.
2. Tyre pressure monitor:
2.1 The units that fit on the valve stems are rather large, though very light. Unfortunately, if you have angled valve stems they catch on the brake callipers so can’t be used until the valve stems are changed.
2.2 Changing the minimum and maximum thresholds in PSI necessitates pressing the plus or minus sign a large number on times. In my case over 80 to get the correct thresholds for my motorcycle. It is easier working in “Bar”, but I work in “PSI”.
2.3 The batteries had nearly died on the units. New ones had to be sourced to make the monitors work. A system to disconnect the batteries in transit until they are fitted to the valves would be beneficial (plastic film or don’t fit them?).
3. Installation:
3.1 The cables are the wrong length for nearly every bike. This is due to the “one size fits all” nature of the unit. It would be better to provide cables of about 0.5 metre in length and have extension cables available in the box to extend those that need extending. The only exception could be the power cable for the Radar unit which, for my bike, was the perfect length.
3.2 The “Pigtail” cable from the unit itself could benefit from being slightly longer (double the length?)
3.3 The breakout cable that connects to the “Pigtail” cable could do with being longer (double the length?)
3.4 The knurled connectors can work themselves loose over time, even when they are firmly pushed together and fully tightened. Possibly a clip system would be better and, possibly, smaller? I used heat shrink over them to a) stop them coming loose and b) stop the metal scratching the paintwork.
3.5 The “Power brick” on the power cable is in the centre of the cable. It should be nearer one end (the battery end would probably be best) to make installation easier. This cable had to be extended by about 0.5 metre to reach the power supply under the seat in order to place the power brick in a sensible position. This meant there was a lot of excess cable to be hidden on the other end.
3.6 Two or three covers for any unused connectors on the breakout cable would be useful. There is already one on the pigtail end which is very useful. Having said that, I am using all the peripherals.
The recent software upgrades have made it much better. There are, as previously mentioned, still some gremlins to be worked out.
Affiliate link with 22% off using code: JOHNLAVELLE https://aoocci.com/?ref=rorcihvl