Author: John Lavelle

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Tyre (Tire) Pumps and Inflators

Oasser Tyre Pump

There is always a tyre inflator on my bike. So, which ones are on my bikes…

As to tyre inflators, there are pros and cons to both – Yes, I have both and much prefer the Battery ones as I don’t need to run the bike (hot exhausts) and fit higher draw 12v electrical sockets on the bike. Don’t use the 12v socket in the glove box you’ll blow the fuse!

Battery (lithium-ion) inflators are the most convenient and some can also be used as a 12v and/or USB charger. They usually come with LED screens, are usually very accurate and are easy to operate.

The battery inflator on the FJR is used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike I’m riding that day (yes, I check the cold tyre pressures every day. I believe tyres are that important) and recharged every week (more often if required). It is now over 4 years old and, because it is being exercised regularly, the battery is in good condition and will inflate a motorcycle tyre from flat more than twice on a single charge – DAMHIK! This one will fit under the seat of a 2019 FJR:

Tyre Pump on the FJR1300

FJR: https://amzn.to/3mSRhns – Oasser Tyre Inflator Electric Bike Pump LCD Display with Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery LED Light 150PSI 12V Black

I have a second battery tyre inflator that has just given up the ghost after 7 years which was kept on my NT700VA Honda Deauville. This one was used every day to check the tyre pressures on the bike and recharged every week (more often if required) until I got the one above. Then it was used intermittently. Oasser claim it will inflate a flat motorcycle tyre 8 times on a single charge. It is a little bigger, but more powerful, than the one on the FJR and won’t fit under the seat. To be able to fit under the seat it needs to be less than 8″ long and preferably <= 7.8″ long.

NT700: https://amzn.to/3Jtae82 – Oasser Tyre Inflator Car Tyre Pump 12V AC/DC Portable Air Compressor with 2000 Large Capacity Battery Rechargeable Li-ion Battery 120PSI 20 litres/Min

Both the Oasser tyre inflators come with a 12v and mains (110v – 240v) charging system. So, using the 12v, you can recharge it on the FJR using the 12v glove box socket provided you don’t run the pump at the same time.

I’m looking at replacing it with a Fanttik: https://amzn.to/3JJxekf The downside with the Fanttik is the length of the hose which is quite short.

I have found that the “wired” tyre inflators tend to have analogue gauges which, usually, aren’t as accurate.

For balance, here are a selection of motorcycle tyre inflators both battery and “wired”:
Selection of motorcycle tyre inflators: https://amzn.to/3JIUT4g

Also, I have ridden 10s of 1,000s of miles with plugged tyres (mushroom type – best, and with gummy worm type). I’ve never had a problem. Admittedly, my speed was rarely above 70 mph. I wouldn’t have any qualms riding with plugged tyres. So repair your tyres on the go and check the cold pressures regularly.

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How to Lift the NT700 Deauville Fuel Tank

In “How to Lift the NT700 Deauville Fuel Tank” we look at how you can get access to the Air Box in order to change the Air Filter on a Honda NT700V Deauville 2006 → . We also discuss some tips and tricks as to making re-assembly easier.. (Video at the bottom of the page).

  • Remove the Seat and take out the Tool Kit (non-US models) – All the work can be carried out with the tools in the OEM Tool Kit, though you’ll find using a 10mm socket with ratchet and a magnetic, cross head screwdriver easier.
  • Remove the Rubber Heat Shield from between the Seat and the Tank – This reveals the bolt and the Cable Holder at the rear of the Tank
  • Remove the Glove Box Lids by lifting them slightly and pulling towards the rear of the bike
  • Remove the screw in the Side Cowlings (one on each side of the bike)
  • Remove the Hex Head Bolt from the rear of the Glove Boxes (use the Hex Key from the Tool Kit)
  • Remove the two Bolts at the front of the Petrol Tank which hold the Glove Boxes and the Tank to the Frame
  • Remove the two Bolts which hold the Glove Boxes to the Facia (below the speaker grills)
  • Remove the Side Cowlings by first pulling the tab towards you – This releases the clip. Then pull the Side Cowling towards the rear of the bike
  • Release the Cable from the Clip at the rear of the Petrol Tank
  • Then loosen the rear Petrol Tank Bolt a few turns – It’s not necessary to remove it Just loosen it a little
  • There are tabs on the Petrol Tank which Fit into Loops on the Glove Box Covers, so they can’t just lift up. So pull the covers towards the outside of the bike as you lift them. They take a bit of manoeuvring to get out. Don’t forget to disconnect the accessory socket – if it’s fitted
  • Remove the 10mm bolts holding the sides of Petrol Tank to the Frame
  • Lift the Front of the Petrol Tank, it will pivot on the rear bolt, and secure it with a Bungee or a strap
  • You can now remove the top of the Air Filter Housing. There are 9 Screws! Put cloths into the Venturi to stop anything falling into the cylinders (remember to remove the cloths when replacing the housing)
  • You can now change the Air Filter – just lift it out and replace it.
  • Re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly – though there are a few “gotchas“
  • Replace the Air Filter Cover. It only fits one way round and takes a bit of fiddling – the 9 screws are into plastic so don’t over-tighten IMPORTANT
  • Remember to reconnect all the connections to the Air box. It’s easy to forget one or not connect it correctly. DAMHIK!
  • Lower the Tank, Re-tighten the Pivot 10mm Bolt & replace the cable in the cable holder
  • Replace the 10mm bolts holding the sides of the tank to the frame
  • Replace the Glove Boxes. This takes a little finagling as the box has to fit past the bolting point. Don’t forget to reconnect the accessory socket – if it’s fitted
  • The loop on the underside of the Glove Box has to connect with a tab on the Glove Box. The Velcro Tab will make life difficult. So Place a piece of paper or card between the two Velcro pieces while manoeuvring it into place
  • Align the Bolt Holes at the front of the tank. Note the Glove Boxes are “Keyed”. One slots into the other
  • Replace the two bolts at the front of the Glove Boxes but don’t fully tighten yet
  • Replace the Hex Head Bolts below the Glove Boxes.
  • Finally, tighten ALL the Glove Box Bolts
  • Replace the Side Cowls – There is a hook on the underside of the Glove Box pieces which slides into the Side Cowls – attach this first and slide the cowls towards the front of the bike. Then clip the bottom hooks into place. Finally, ensure the bullet connector at the rear of the cowl is connected
  • Replace the Tank Heat Shield – There is a grove in the bottom which locates onto the panels next to the frame
  • Insert and tighten the Bolts in the Side Cowls
  • Replace the Glove Box Lids – They locate and clip into place At the same angle as they came out
  • Replace your Tool Kit – You can do a lot of the basic work on your bike with it

I hope to have more lighting in the garage soon so you’ll be able to watch videos of the process not just a montage of stills.

How to lift the Deauville NT700 Fuel Tank

Thanks for watching. Please Like, Comment, Share and Subscribe

See you next time!

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How to Pin the Panniers on a Yamaha FJR1300

There have been occasions when the side cases on the FJR1300 have become detached while riding, especially after hitting a bump or deformity in the road. Only just the other day someone posted on another site about one of his Panniers becoming detached and self destructing on the road. Luckily this hasn’t happened to me. Even so I decided to do something about it. The video on How to Pin the Panniers on a Yamaha FJR1300 is at the end of this post.

With that in mind I decided to pin my panniers. It turned out to be a very easy job – the basic work took less than 15 minutes to complete both sides. As I have rear crash guards and decided to paint the clevis pins, it took about an hour or so in total.

I’ve found that since doing it the panniers don’t move at all. Whereas before they would rattle a little. Also, when they are full, the bike seems more stable at the rear probably due to the lack of movement.

The minimum you need to do the job is two 55mm x 6mm (2¼” x ¼”) or slightly longer Clevis Pins, a 7mm (5/16”) drill bit and a drill. (Selection of Clevis Pins)

Steps:

  • Optional – Paint Clevis Pins
  • Remove Rear Crash Bars if fitted
  • Offer up drill to the side case and place a lot of Masking Tape on the Panniers where the drill touches
  • Glue Rubber Stays back in place if necessary
  • Optional (recommended) – Drill a small pilot hole centred 7mm from the long flat side of the case support and centred between the two ribs
  • Drill the hole through the case supports and rubber stays (centred 7mm from the long flat side of the case support and centred between the two ribs)
  • Optional – Cut Heat Shrink Tubes to size 95mm (4 5/8″) long
  • Optional – Spray small amount of White Grease into the heat Shrink Tubes and slide them onto the Round Wire loops on the Clevis Pins
  • Optional – Shrink the Heat Shrink tube with a heat gun
  • Insert the Clevis Pins

I made a video and took some photographs of the procedure. There is no lighting in the garage, so the video footage was very grainy and not usable. Luckily, pictures were taken of each step using a mobile phone with a flash. The video below, therefore, is a montage of those pictures and more than adequately shows the items and the steps necessary to do this very simple job.

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Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Seat – Deauville NT700

Ordering, Delivery, Unboxing & Fitting

What’s in the box? How well made is it? How easy is it to fit? Today you’ll find out.

Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr
Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Seat for the Deauville NT700 on Amazon
Top Sellerie Range for the Deauville 650 & 700 on Amazon

Ordering

The Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Seat was ordered online 14th January. I had a replacement Seat Pan so I sent that off the next day. I received a confirmation that the Seat Pan had arrived and was given a provisional shipping date of 19th February. On 6th February I received an email to tell me that the seat was being shipped and I received it on 12th, a whole week earlier than expected – Well done Top Sellerie!

Top Sellerie have 3 methods of “ordering”:

  • Remanufacture: Send your original seat and receive your new seat about 4 weeks later. Pros: Cheapest and you keep your own seat pan. Cons: You can’t ride your bike for about a month! Finding a way to send your seat to them.
  • Seat Exchange: Use their own seat pan and receive your new seat in about 1 week to 4 weeks depending on whether they need to build it or have one in stock. You then send your original seat back to them (you also need to pay a relatively hefty deposit which you get refunded when they receive your seat). Pros: Cheaper and you get to ride your bike while the seat is being made. Cons: Paying a hefty deposit and having to find a way to send your seat back to them
  • Buy a New Seat: Buy a complete seat from them. Waiting times are similar to Seat Exchange. It’s also the most expensive. Pros: You get to ride your bike while the seat is being made and you’ve always got your old seat if you need it. You can also sell your old seat to recoup some of the cost if you want. Cons: Cost

Customer Service

Top Sellerie’s customer service is excellent. They informed of the receipt of the seat pan and of the shipping.

Delivery

Delivery is via a Courier Company. Mine was delivered by DHL. Top Sellerie seem to have a number of outlets, depots and facilities in different countries and mine was shipped from Portugal. DHL had initially given a delivery date of 14th February but, it arrived two days earlier. Luckily, someone was here to receive the delivery.

What’s in the Box?

The seat in clear plastic bag and bubble wrap, and a note, in various languages, asking to send a photo of the seat on the bike. The seat was well protected by the bubble wrap and the outer packaging had stood up well to the delivery. If you order the Seat Exchange, you can use the same packaging to send your old seat back to them. I’m using the packaging to store my original seat safely in the garage.

The Gel seat is heavy! It’s about twice the weight of the original seat. The piping on the edges, the embroidery and stitching look very good indeed to my untrained eye.

The gel is firm and the covering material feels very good. The cover is stapled to the seat pan and they’ve used a lot of staples. They’ve also used three “studs” to secure the “hump” behind the rider’s seat.

Fitting

The seat takes a lot of finagling to fit for the first time. This is due to the extra size of the front portion of the seat. I initially thought that there was a problem with the seat pan but, I checked the Honda part number and measured all the fasteners and holes and they were exactly the same except one of the holes which was about 0.25 mm smaller so I “dremelled” it to the same size.

The knack to fitting the seat the first time is to put the bike on the centre stand. Make sure it won’t rock forward so put something in front of the front and/or rear wheel and brace your leg against the passenger foot rest, you’ll see why in a moment. Slot the seat into place, it won’t lock down at this point. This is due to the head of the bolt which holds the seat locking mechanism in place not lining up with the corresponding hole in the seat pan. Firmly grasp the rear of the seat and forcefully pull it forward while pressing down, the seat will lock into place. You may need two or three goes at it. If you still have problems, remove the rubber heat guard from between the tank and the seat and try again.

Now you know why you need the bike stabilised!

Note: after the seat has been on for a while the gel at the front of the seat deforms by about the 1 mm required and it does become easier to fit the seat. If you’re still having problems, you could “dremel” the the hole the bolt head fits into on the bottom of the seat pan about 1 mm longer.

Unlocking the seat needs a bit more force on the lever until the seat “beds in”.

Thoughts

This seat feels nice to the touch and looks fantastic. This seat is lovely once you get the knack of putting it on and taking it off. The seat is a little taller than the original. I used to be able to “flat-foot” both feet with the original seat now, I can’t quite flat-foot both feet simultaneously, but I can very easily get the balls of both feet on the ground. For reference I’m just over 5’8″ or 174 cm with a 30″ inside leg.

I’m very impressed with the seat so far and will go out and give it a thorough test and report back. So, in the next post I’ll give my thoughts on comfort, riding on it and using it on a regular basis. Until next time…

Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Seat for the Deauville NT700
Top Sellerie Range for the Deauville 650 & 700
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

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Basic Suspension Sag – Spring Preload

Correct suspension setup is essential for your motorcycle to handle correctly. A lot of motorcycles come just with very basic suspension setup – Spring Preload. You can usually only change the ride height of the rear suspension. That’s it!

In this article we’ll look at adjusting the Spring Preload. In other articles we’ll look at more complex suspension adjustments – compression and rebound damping.

Setting the Spring Preload correctly means the rear suspension for your bike is set up for your weight. Therefore the motorcycle handles better.

Some motorcycles only have 5 or 6 adjustment positions, others can have many more. You have to live with what your motorcycle has which, for most riders, will be adequate. If it isn’t, change the spring to one more suitable for your weight.

There is a more precise way to set up the rear suspension for your bike than the “seat of the pants” method used in the past. It involves a friend, or two if you don’t have a paddock stand, and a tape measure. Oh, and a pencil and paper to write everything down. If your friends are riders too, you can have a Rider Sag Suspension Setup Session.

  • 1. Write down the current settings: how many turns in or out (your choice but usually out) the settings are currently set to. Note: the factory setting is usually in the manual, if all goes wrong reset to that!
  • 2. Get off the bike . Lift the rear end to the limit of the suspension travel and let it drop back down, supporting the bike so it doesn’t fall over – a front wheel paddock stand is really useful here if you have one or a friend. There should be about 5 mm of drop – measure by eye. This is the Static Sag.
  • 3. Measure the suspension height, in millimetres, from a suitable place e.g. top suspension bolt or bottom suspension bolt to a suitable point on the rear plastic or frame etc. (try to get as near vertical as possible) and write down this measurement immediately after doing the static sag.
  • 4. Get on the bike, in full bike clothing with normal luggage and/or backpack, and sit as you would sit normally while riding, both feet on the pegs with either a paddock stand or friend holding the front of the bike. Measure the suspension again (as per item 3) and subtract it from the figure in item 3. This is called Rider Sag.
    The Rider Sag for a typical street setup should be about 35 mm – 40 mm (30 mm – 40 mm if there isn’t much adjustment available).
    Note: track Sag settings are different and shouldn’t be used on public roads as you’ll probably end up in a hedge at the first bump!
  • 5. If there is more than one rear shock on your motorcycle, adjust both shocks equally (very important) until the desired Rider Sag is achieved. See your manual for the adjustment procedure. If you’ve loosened any nuts make sure they’re correctly tightened as per the manual.
    Now do your friends’ bikes…
  • 6. Go for a test ride and adjust if necessary between the 30 mm and 40 mm range.
  • 7. Recheck your Rider Sag about every 1,000 miles or so.

Now that your Rider Sag is setup correctly you should see a number of benefits:

  • Better handling, especially in the corners
  • A more comfortable ride
  • Better tyre wear – your tyres should last longer provided they’re correctly inflated.

Finally, remember to change the Rider Sag if you carry a pillion passenger or heavy items i.e. you go on a touring holiday.

Until next time, ride safe and enjoy your ride.

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Eclipse Battery Voltage Monitor

Tiny doesn’t do this auto-dimming battery voltage monitor justice! It’s miniscule with a multitude of functions.

The Eclipse is a fully waterproof voltage indicator with a bright three colour (green/amber/red) LED. The entire control circuit is built into a tiny water-resistant capsule embedded directly behind the LED, and a black nylon bezel (plus a spare) are supplied for a tidy installation into your panel. It is guaranteed waterproof.

The Eclipse constantly monitors the ambient light level and adjusts the LED’s output brightness instantly and seamlessly, so that the LED will not dazzle at night time. There is no ‘third wire’ or separate sensor.

Benefits of auto-dimming:

  • LED is brightly visible in sunshine and comfortably dimmed during dark
  • maintains optimum indication with minimum distraction
  • micropower consumption in darkness

Features:

  • dims automatically in response to ambient light
  • fully waterproof & shockproof (IP rating pending)
  • available in three LED sizes; 10mm, 8mm, and 5mm
  • indicates your battery’s charge condition and confirms alternator operation (if applicable)
  • available in 6v, 12v, or 24v versions (or other voltage from 3v min. to 32v max.)
  • extremely precise (12v unit is +/-0.03v)
  • 600 mm long flexible flying leads (longer leads available on request)
  • reverse polarity and overload protected
  • simple two wire connection to positive & negative
  • very low power consumption (8ma in bright light, 1ma in darkness)
  • suitable for direct connection to battery (simply cover to reduce drain when garaged)
Voltage: Output: Engine running: Engine stopped (electrics off):
>15.20v ■■ Green / Red alternating over-charging – regulator problem not applicable
>13.20v ■ Green steady normal charging exceptional battery charge (uncommon)
>12.45v ■ Amber steady under-charging – alternator problem normal battery, charged and in good health
>12.25v ■■ Red slow flashing not charging – battery low fair battery charge
>12.05v •• Red 2 flashes, repeating not charging – battery low low battery charge
>11.80v ••• Red 3 flashes, repeating not charging – battery very low very low battery charge
<11.80v •••• Red 4 flashes, repeating not charging – battery very low consider renewing battery

Installation

As it is so small and waterproof, installation is as easy or as difficult as you want it to be. It can be installed anywhere relatively close to virtually any live circuit. It doesn’t have to be near the battery.

On the Honda Deauville 700 it is installed in the instrument panel. This took a little more work as the instrument panel had to be removed and then drilled (eek!). The hole required depends on the unit purchased but it’s no more than 14 mm. I choose the 8 mm unit so needed a 12 mm hole. If you are going to mount it in your dashboard, or anywhere else for that matter, double check that you’re not going to damage any circuitry – “measure twice, cut once“

Connection is better to a low power switched circuit and not to the headlights or heated grips etc. You can connect it directly to the battery (it draws very little power) provided the bike isn’t garaged over winter or for long periods.

So what’s it like in use?

The LED battery monitor has operated flawlessly for over 5 years. It gives an extremely easy to read state of your battery and, if there’s a problem, the flashing LED will catch your eye.

On turning on the ignition you (usually) get a steady red light. On starting it usually flashes because the starter motor is drawing a great deal of current. Once the engine is started the LED turns green after about 1 second. That’s it. Simples!

When the battery on the Deauville started to fail about 4 years ago, the Eclipse gave lots of warning that it wasn’t charging properly. This meant I could order a new battery and fit it before being stuck at the side of the road.

I thoroughly recommend this unit. Properly positioned it even looks OEM.

You can get your Eclipse Battery Voltage Monitor here:

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

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Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat – FJR1300

Ordering, Delivery, Unboxing & Fitting

What’s in the box? How well made is it? Does “Lowered” make a difference? How easy is it to fit? Today you’ll find out.

Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat for the FJR1300 >2006
Top Sellerie Products on Amazon
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

Ordering

The Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat was ordered online at the end of November 2019 in time for a Christmas delivery. Luckily they had one in stock, in Portugal – more about this later, and it was delivered 2 weeks before Christmas.

Top Sellerie have 3 methods of “ordering”:

  • Remanufacture: Send your original seat and receive your new seat about 4 weeks later. Pros: Cheapest and you keep your own seat pan. Cons: You can’t ride your bike for about a month! Finding a way to send your seat to them.
  • Seat Exchange: Use their own seat pan and receive your new seat in about 1 week to 4 weeks depending on whether they need to build it or have one in stock. You then send your original seat back to them (you also need to pay a relatively hefty deposit which you get refunded when they receive your seat). Pros: Cheaper and you get to ride your bike while the seat is being made. Cons: Paying a hefty deposit and having to find a way to send your seat back to them
  • Buy a New Seat: Buy a complete seat from them. Waiting times are similar to Seat Exchange. It’s also the most expensive. Pros: You get to ride your bike while the seat is being made and you’ve always got your old seat if you need it. You can also sell your old seat to recoup some of the cost if you want. Cons: Cost

Customer Service

Top Sellerie’s customer service is excellent. They replied promptly to my queries and were courteous and extremely helpful. They sorted out the problem with DHL (see below) quickly and efficiently. All the correspondence was in English. Top Marks Top Sellerie!

Delivery

Delivery is via a Courier Company. Mine was, unfortunately, delivered by DHL. Top Sellerie seem to have a number of outlets, depots and facilities in different countries and mine was shipped from Portugal at no extra cost to me. Unfortunately DHL managed to “lose” the package in Spain. How do you “lose” a package big enough to hold a motorcycle seat? On their tracking site it said it was in Spain and it remained there, in total, for about 10 days. After 3 days I emailed DHL and received a “canned response”. 3 days later I emailed them again and received another “canned response”, though, this time DHL blocked access to the detailed tracking info. I then emailed Top Sellerie and, low and behold, DHL “found” the package and it was delivered three days later. I think DHL needs to change their corporate slogan to “Too big to care”.

What’s in the Box?

Just the seat in clear plastic bags and bubble wrap. The seat was well protected by the bubble wrap and the outer packaging had stood up well to the delivery. If you order the Seat Exchange, you can use the same packaging to send your old seat back to them. I’m using the packaging to store my original seat safely in the garage.

The Gel seat is heavy! It’s about twice the weight of the original seat. (Note to self: weigh it and find out). The piping on the edges, the embroidery and stitching look very good indeed to my untrained eye. The Top Sellerie seat pan is stamped with the Top Sellerie logo underneath and isn’t of the same plastic material as my original seat. I don’t think this matters as it seems to be more sturdy so will handle the extra weight of the gel.

The gel is firm and the covering material feels very good. The cover is stapled to the seat pan and they’ve used a lot of staples.

Fitting

The FJR has two seats, front and rear.

The front is very easy. It fits perfectly in the place of the original seat.

The rear seat takes a bit more finagling. This is due to the extra size of the front seat and rear seat. You need to slot the rear of the rear seat in place, then while holding it down with one hand, pull the front seat slightly forward and, at the same time, push the front of the rear seat down until it clicks. It’s easy after you’ve done it a few times.

The original seat, when you unlocked it, would pop up. The Top Sellerie one doesn’t, so you need to push it push while turning the lock.

Thoughts

This seat feels nice to the touch and looks fantastic. This seat is lovely once you get the knack of putting it on and taking it off. As it’s the lowered seat, I’m no longer on tiptoe, which was a bit precarious to say the least with a bike as heavy as the FJR. I can’t flat-foot both feet simultaneously, but I can get the balls of both feet on the ground and I can flat-foot one foot very easily. For reference I’m just over 5’8″ or 174 cm with a 30″ inside leg.

So, yes! To answer the question. Lowered makes quite a big difference.

I’m very impressed with it so far and will go out and give it a thorough test and report back. So, in the next post I’ll give my thoughts on comfort, riding on it and using it on a regular basis. Until next time…

Link to the Top Sellerie Deluxe Comfort Gel Lowered Seat for the FJR1300 >2006
Top Sellerie Products on Amazon
Top Sellerie: https://topsellerie.fr

FJR1300 with the Top Sellerie Deluxe, Comfort, Gel, Lowered Seat

I’m not associated with this company in any way other than having bought and fully paid for one or more of their products. They are unaware that I am writing this review.

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Cleaning your Bike

The first rule about cleaning your bike is to try not to touch it when it’s dirty! This is because it scratches extremely easily. By using a cloth, sponge or chamois leather you’ll pick up microscopic pieces of dirt and grit which will then scratch the paint. These scratches are known as “swirl marks”.

Woah, how then do I clean it if I can’t touch it?

Well it’s not as difficult as you may think. The technique is to clean the paint and remove all the dirt before you touch it. This technique can be used and is recommend for use on all paint types – Matte or Gloss.

I will be making videos about how to clean and care for Matte Paint as well as Gloss paint and will post links here when the time comes.

To help you, at the bottom of the page is a complete list of all the products used to clean my vehicles and where to buy them*.

The Steps Required:

  1. Make sure the vehicle is cold. It shouldn’t have been used and should have been kept in the shade for at least an hour.
  2. Make sure the vehicle is in the shade, out of direct sunlight, preferably out of the wind and not in a dusty environment. If it has a centre stand, place it on the centre stand. If it doesn’t, use a Paddock stand.
  3. Thoroughly rinse the exterior of the vehicle, including wheels etc. using clean, cold water. It is best to use a hosepipe without a nozzle for this and not a jet-washer**.
    Note: Pressure-washers** and high pressure hoses can cause damage to electrics, bearings and even the paint if the power is too high. If you have to use a pressure/jet-washer, dial the power to the minimum setting, set the spray to the widest setting and keep the nozzle/tip at least 1 metre (3 feet) from the vehicle at all times. Use your common sense to make sure you don’t push water past the seals into the bearings and electrics.
  4. Now starting from the top of the vehicle and working to the bottom, liberally spray the whole of exterior of the vehicle with Muc-off Bike Cleaner or Silkolene Wash Off. Both do the same job extremely well. You’ll use about 1/3 of a litre of the cleaner depending on the size of the motorcycle.
    You can make your own soap spray. I use Dr Beasley’s Body Wash which I dilute in water. To 1 litre of water (approximately 2 pints) in a spray container, add 3 – 4 cap fulls of Dr Beasley’s Body Wash. Shake well before use.
  5. Leave the cleaning product to “soak” on the vehicle for about 5 minutes without letting it dry. This lets it soak into and under the dirt. Then rinse off as before (step 3). If it does start to dry respray with the cleaner.
  6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. Then check that the vehicle is totally clean. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5 for a third time – you very rarely have to do it a third time.
    If you have a very stubborn area, very very gently, using your finger (don’t use a cloth as you need to be able to feel for grit), rub the area while applying the cleaning product. If you feel any grittiness at all, stop rubbing immediately.
  7. At this point the whole vehicle should be clean so you can now touch it. Using a good quality Microfibre towel and starting at the top, dry the whole of the vehicle.
    Do not let the towel touch the ground, if it does, put it in the wash and get another one.
    If you don’t want to touch your vehicle, you can use a vehicle dryer (highly recommended) to dry your vehicle. Note: it is better to use a motorcycle dryer as it usually includes a longer cable and a heater.
  8. To dry the front wheel and/or the rear wheel, use a Motorcycle Wheel Roller. This allows you to easily turn the wheel while drying it. Drying the wheels are usually the last drying job.
  9. Once the motorcycle is clean and dry take it off the centre stand and place it on the side stand. Start the engine and leave the engine running for about 10 minutes to thoroughly warm up and dry out the motorcycle. Make sure all the controls and electrics are working.

Your vehicle should now be clean and dry and you can put it away or, better still, go for a ride!

About once every 3 months during the summer and once a month in the winter I also add a layer of protection to the motorcycle. You can find details in Protecting your Pride and Joy (link coming soon).

Products Used:

Muc-off Bike Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2PJMNgk
Silkolene Wash Off: https://amzn.to/2rcswpu
Dr Beasley’s Body Wash: https://amzn.to/2WLExxJ
Microfibre Drying Towels: https://amzn.to/36zhrPm
Paddock Stand: https://amzn.to/36wRNef
Motorcycle Wheel Roller: https://amzn.to/2CchnaA
Motorcycle Dryer: https://amzn.to/32g02aY
Worx Cordless Pressure Washer**: https://amzn.to/2PHhkvg
Worx Battery Charging Station: https://amzn.to/2NCRV3b (required for the pressure washer)
* These are affiliate links and will help support this channel with a small commission at no additional cost to you. The price you pay is the same regardless of whether you use these links or not. Thank you for your support.

** I have to use a pressure washer as I don’t have a tap for water or an electricity point close to where I wash my vehicles. Therefore, I use a battery operated pressure washer which can draw water from a bucket.

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Cleaning Matte Paint

Matte Paint is difficult to clean properly and even more difficult to keep clean. Traditional cleaning products can, and usually do, damage Matte Paint. Therefore, you need to use different products and techniques specially formulated for the paint. In this Post we’ll look at how to keep Matte Paint looking good. To protect matte paint, see Protecting Matte Paint

Matte Paint is formulated to not have a reflective surface. The Clear Coat, the lacquer on top of the paint, isn’t smooth as in gloss paints. If you rub it you’re going to make it smoother and more reflective. This is BAD. You cannot use any products which contain polishes, silicone or wax as this will also make the surface smoother and more reflective.

To help you, at the bottom of the page is a complete list of all the products used to clean my Matte Paint vehicles and where to buy them*.

The first rule about cleaning Matte Paint is to try not to touch it when it’s dirty! This is because it scratches extremely easily.

Woah, how then do I clean it if I can’t touch it?

Well it’s not as difficult as you may think. The technique is to clean the paint and remove all the dirt before you touch it. This technique can be used and is recommend for use on all paint types – Matte or Gloss. See Cleaning Your Bike for specific information on gloss paints as this page deals only with Matte Paints.

I will be making videos about how to clean and care for Matte Paint as well as Gloss paint and will post links here when the time comes.

The Steps Required:

  1. Make sure the vehicle is cold. It shouldn’t have been used and should have been kept in the shade for at least an hour.
  2. Make sure the vehicle is in the shade, out of direct sunlight, preferably out of the wind and not in a dusty environment. If it has a centre stand, place it on the centre stand. If it doesn’t, use a Paddock stand.
  3. Thoroughly rinse the exterior of the vehicle, including wheels etc. using clean, cold water. It is best to use a hosepipe without a nozzle for this and not a jet-washer**.
    Note: Pressure-washers** and high pressure hoses can cause damage to electrics, bearings and even the paint if the power is too high. If you have to use a pressure/jet-washer, dial the power to the minimum setting, set the spray to the widest setting and keep the nozzle/tip at least 1 metre (3 feet) from the vehicle at all times. Use your common sense to make sure you don’t push water past the seals into the bearings and electrics.
  4. Now starting from the top of the vehicle and working to the bottom, liberally spray the whole of exterior of the vehicle with Muc-off Bike Cleaner or Silkolene Wash Off. Both do the same job extremely well. You’ll use about 1/3 of a litre of the cleaner depending on the size of the motorcycle.
    You can make your own soap spray. I use Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash diluted in water. To 1 litre of water (approximately 2 pints) in a spray container, add 3 – 4 cap fulls of Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash . Shake well before use.
  5. Leave the cleaning product to “soak” on the vehicle for about 5 minutes without letting it dry. This lets it soak into and under the dirt. Then rinse off as before (step 3). If it does start to dry respray with the cleaner.
  6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. Then check that the vehicle is totally clean. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5 for a third time – you very rarely have to do it a third time.
    If you have a very stubborn area, very very gently, using your finger (don’t use a cloth as you need to be able to feel for grit), rub the area while applying the cleaning product. If you feel any grittiness at all, stop rubbing immediately.
  7. At this point the whole vehicle should be clean so you can now touch it. Using a good quality Microfibre towel and starting at the top, dry the whole of the vehicle.
    Do not let the towel touch the ground, if it does, put it in the wash and get another one.
    If you don’t want to touch your vehicle, you can use a vehicle dryer (highly recommended) to dry your vehicle. Note: it is better to use a motorcycle dryer as it usually includes a longer cable and a heater.
  8. To dry the front wheel and/or the rear wheel, use a Motorcycle Wheel Roller. This allows you to easily turn the wheel while drying it. Drying the wheels are usually the last drying job.
  9. Once the motorcycle is clean and dry take it off the centre stand and place it on the side stand. Start the engine and leave the engine running for about 10 minutes to thoroughly warm up and dry out the motorcycle. Make sure all the controls and electrics are working.

Your vehicle should now be clean and dry and you can put it away or, better still, go for a ride!

About once every 3 months during the summer and once a month in the winter I also add a layer of protection to the motorcycle. You can find details in Protecting your Matte Paint .

Products Used:

Muc-off Bike Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2PJMNgk
Silkolene Wash Off: https://amzn.to/2rcswpu
Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Auto Wash: https://amzn.to/2Q5MVqw
Microfibre Drying Towels: https://amzn.to/36zhrPm
Paddock Stand: https://amzn.to/36wRNef
Motorcycle Wheel Roller: https://amzn.to/2CchnaA
Motorcycle Dryer: https://amzn.to/32g02aY
Worx Cordless Pressure Washer**: https://amzn.to/2PHhkvg
Worx Battery Charging Station: https://amzn.to/2NCRV3b (required for the pressure washer)
*These are affiliate links. By using these links Bike Farkles receives a small commission which goes towards the running of this site. The price you pay is the same regardless of whether you use these links or not. Thank you for your support.

** I have to use a pressure washer as I don’t have a tap for water or an electricity point close to where I wash my vehicles. Therefore, I use a battery operated pressure washer which can draw water from a bucket.

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